Weekend Recap

I felt like sewing this weekend and decided to cut out a practice skirt for my class using some cheaper, but still nice fabric instead of my "good fabric." Kind of the concept of "making a muslin" but with actual wearable fabric instead of muslin. I hate the idea of making something that I know at the front end will be unwearable.

I decided on New Look #6733, view C (shown in a black and white print, second from the top, in the left column.)

I cut a 14 (those of you who sew know that pattern sizing has no relation to RTW sizing) based on my measurements and it was huge. Check out all this extra fabric.

I had compared the finished hip width printed on the pattern back to the finished measurement of another skirt I made and they were the same, but what I didn't take into account was the shape of the skirt. That one was a pencil skirt, and this one is more of an A-line, so it gives more ease as it is fuller, even with the same measurement at the hip.

So, I compared the pattern pieces for the 12 vs. the 14 and it appeared that each piece was only 1/4" different, as there are six pieces that comprise the skirt, so between the six, there was 1 1/2" of difference between the two sizes. It has a front and back, with two side panels that are sewn to each front and back (there is another view with godets, so it is kind of like that look, except I didn't choose to actually make those for my first attempt.)

I then compared the 14 to a RTW skirt I own that fits well to see how it differed.

I expected the RTW skirt to be smaller than normal as it is a knit and I was comparing it to a woven. What I figured out is that the finished measurement for the 10 per the pattern envelope = the measurement of my knit Eileen Fisher skirt in this style, so if (when! as I love this style) I make this in a knit fabric, I will cut a 10. The hip measurement for the 12 was one inch larger than the 10, which seems to make sense as I knew it would need a little more ease for a woven fabric.

The 12 fits much better. I took the slacker way out on this one and didn't pick out all the seams with a seamripper. I used the 20 mm seam guide (about 7/8") instead of the 15 mm one (5/8") and ran the seams again right next to the old ones. Then I pinked open the seams, trimming them to about half width, cutting open the old seam in the process, so that I can now press these flat. For the practice skirt, that was OK, but I wouldn't do that with my good fabric. I like it pretty well though. It is still a little big, but it is supposed to sit below the waist (which I tried to do on J.Lo.) Another problem I think I have is that my front is narrower than my back. My dress form is adjusted to accomodate and match this - like with my 38" hip measurement, my front is 18" wide and my back is 20", not 19" and 19" like you would expect. Is there an alteration for that? What would that be called? The "big booty" adjustment?

(right side)

(front, which is off center, I see now)

(left side, where zipper will be placed)

Now I have to recut the yoke pieces for the waist as 12s instead of 14s, as I hadn't touched those yet. Hopefully everything fits together right, but now I know the 12 is going to fit great when I use my good fabric. I could probably even get away with the 10 in the woven fabric, as the 12 is still a little big, but I don't want it to pull anywhere. I hate that "too tight skirt" look and want to avoid that. It is a fine line, as I can't get away with too much ease, being petite, yet I don't want things to be too tight. It is interesting and I'm sure I'll learn even more as I go along and get experience. I even learned a lot today!

I also cast on a kit from Pick Up Sticks yesterday on a whim. The sushi wallet that some of you may have seen in your LYS about a year ago. It's been sitting in my closet for about a year to a year and a half, and something made me say, Yeah, cast this on! It'll be fun! And so far it has been. I finished the body of the wallet and made the first piece of sushi. It'll teach me a new skill too, which I always love; I haven't sewn a zipper into my knitting before and this pattern will force me to do it! Here it is in progress, pre-felting:

Hope everyone had a great weekend!! I feel great as I got a lot of time in at home to work on my sewing and knitting. I always feel better when I don't have to go too many places over the weekend.

Comments

[adrienne]

Glad you learned a lot!!!!! That was a TON of extra fabric!!!!!!

[ruby]

It's great when your weekend is productive. Love that feeling.

Are you going to get to make your own personal block in your sewing class as that would be the answer to these problems? If not let me know and I'll try and talk you through it so you can get one made - at least for skirts.

With regards to 'generous, shapely' rears I often make the back of skirts and dresses very slightly longer than the front so when worn they look straight rather than rising slightly at the back.

[Heather R]

I have tried sushi before. I think I prefer the felted wallet. :)

[kozykitty]

One thing you will learn to do is to flat measure everything. I rarely cut a pattern without adjustments. I iron my pattern pieces and measure. I usually need to increase the hips which I find easier than taking in at the waist. You'll get used to that. I like McCall's patterns because they give the finished measurements on the pattern envelope. I find that really helpful in making the currect selection. Vogue prints the finished measurements on the pattern tissue. It looks like you figured out what to do! I can't wait to see the finished skirt!

[Monica]

I'm glad you were able to get the skirt adjusted. That was a lot of extra material! It's really great that you are learning to fit the garments to yourself.
The sushi wallet will be really cute. I've never sewn a zipper into a knitted item. That will be interesting to see.

[Katie J]

Can't wait to see that sushi wallet done and hear all about it. I'd love to make one for my step-sister who is crazy for sushi. Good luck with the skirt. Can't wait to see that too!

[Jenny]

One of my SnB buddies said that you should go down 2 pattern sizes from what your measurements are. I haven't tested this theory yet, but I have made several items that were way too big for me, so I'm thinking it's probably true. I completely agree on making a muslin. Your way is much more practical!

[Carol]

I have one of those sushi wallets too! I cast on and started,umm, a while ago. I should probably finish it as I can't imagine it will take very long....

[Marin]

I thought it was just me... everything I've ever sewn has been way too big (and I'm apparently not bright enough to adjust up front. I just sew, all the time saying, "This doesn't look quite right. Probably when it's all done it will come together."

If they ever tell you how to allow for the big booty so skirts don't hang two inches lower in the front, would you please clue in the masses? I'd be terribly interested myself.

[Debby]

I don't understand everything I've read above, but it does sound like you are conquering that waist-gap/full hip issue that plagues me with skirts and pants. Good luck!!

I have finally figured out what you said at the end of the post, about not going out much on weekends. That's really the key to good crafting progress, and I hope that as it gets colder here, we can hunker down and I can crank out the knits like you do. :)

[Bobbi]

I hope the pattern works out I really love that color you picked. big booty adjustment! I love that, of course mine would be a lot different.

[marjorie]

I agree with Kozykitty about measuring the pattern tissue before you cut. Different styles will sometimes have different measurements, although when I used commercial patterns, I thought that each brand was relatively uniform (I stuck largely with Vogue Patterns in the 1970s). Once I realized what adjustments I had to make, I would do the same thing on all Vogue patterns.

The sloper isn't really a waste of time because it is easier to mark the changes on it and keep it for reference, but I have also made a "pre-version" of a pattern, just as you've done.

A friend of mine used to cut apart garments he liked and trace them as patterns. I can't imagine you want to do that with an Eileen Fisher skirt, but you could trace the pieces by putting tissue paper over the skirt, pinning it on, and then using pencil to mark the shape. Add seam allowance, and you have a line-for-line copy of a skirt you like.

[Michelle]

Cool! I always have SUCH a hard time figuring out what size to cut for patterns! I wish everything was standard, but then again even in RTW I can go from a size 6 to a 14 depending on the manufacturer..crazy!

[KeanaLee]

I love the sushi wallet, it's
too cute! Can't wait to see it!

[FantasyKnits]

Looks like you had a very productive weekend! I like staying at home and getting things done, too :).

[Maryanne]

Hey, I have that kit too! And it's sitting on my shelf too! Maybe, once I see yours made up, I'll feel more motivated to make mine :) I think you and Kasia must be on the same wavelength these days because she just made a skirt really similar to yours! Glad you got the fitting issues out of the way with your "throwaway" fabric :) Looks great!

[stefaneener]

Oh man, I had the funniest dream about you and me in a pattern drafting class. I can't even make up my dreams - lifted straight from your blog.

[Jeanine]

You are going to be quite the seamstress in no time. You are learning alot.

[Kasia]

Yeah... sizing can be such a pain in the butt! I twice had this problem with butterick patterns: the measurments called for the size 2 times bigger than I had to cut it down two after I had to look for myself in those outfits! What a bugger! I am looking forward to see your skirt done!
Burda has rather good sizings, but not in the single patterns but in the magazines with patterns. Single patterns have to be taken a size less than they really are...